After the finale of the Marc Jacobs fashion show, the 20th autumn and winter New York Fashion Week, which lasted for 8 days, officially ended. If you count the men's week of the previous few days, New York has a 10-day show.
The three giants Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfger, and Calvin Klein, who represent the "American Dream," only participated in New York Fashion Week. Tommy moved to Paris, and the departure of Raf Simons made Calvin Klein give up this New York Fashion Week. Alexander Wang released the 2019 Fall/Winter ready-to-wear collection in December 2018.
The â€œbig nameâ€ that has received much attention is absent from New York Fashion Week in 2019. However, the â€œlight luxuryâ€ legion composed of brands such as Tory Burch, Michael Kors and COACH has become a highlight of this New York Fashion Week. It is called â€œthe pillarâ€. .
COACH continues to stick to the streets
COACH, a young and successful transformation, this continuation of the retro American street style, cool print is still a big point of view, and made more delicate changes in tailoring and details.
This season's jackets make the COACH street style even worse. The wide shoulders and the rich materials are all evident. In order to highlight the theme of this season's classic and creative improvement, COACH creative director Stuart Vevers uses a large number of shearing, tulle and leather materials to make the Coach American girl of the soft and soft in the snowy New York.
It is worth mentioning that COACH is trying to develop tailor-made clothing for male and female consumers to cope with the trend of youth and personalization.
Michael Kors smashes social media
Michael Kors2019 released the show in autumn and winter, and made a significant contribution to social media.
This season, Michael Kors pays tribute to the gorgeous and shining 70s and the legendary club â€œStudio 54â€, recreating the classic elements of the seventies: rock, remix, hippie style, with frills, feathers, flowers as accessories. The models were accompanied by disco music in the show. The show featured nightclub style, sequins, suspenders, sexy cut retro and attractive, wearing a sequined skirt, and a seductive black stockings "night girl".
According to data analysis company ListenFirst, Michael Kors tracked social media topics during NYFW from February 4th to February 13th. Michael Kors ranked first with 5,910,972 topic participation.
Lisa D'Amico, head of the fashion and beauty industry, said that the success of the luxury brand Michael Kors is due to the complete social strategy system during NYFW, starting with the 2019 spring event this week, first launching KOL Bella Hadid, followed by social media. Continue to release the trailer to warm up.
Although the share price of parent company Capri Holdings has soared, the Michael Kors brand has performed poorly in recent quarters, with same-store sales falling. According to WWD analysis: "Although Michael Kors released the show is very exciting, but the young people's electronic music culture is in the retro revival, lacking the luxury of the moment, it is not clear whether this series can cause market interest."
Kate Spade works hard to make a new look
After the founder's death, Kate Spade, the American luxury brand acquired by Coach, the new creative director Nicola Glass released a second series of different styles in the 2019 New York Fall/Winter Fashion Week.
It is worth mentioning that Kate Spade began to work on social media, invited KiKiLayne, Julia Garner and Sadie Sink to attend the spring event in New York. During the NYFW tracking social media hotspot rankings, Kate Spade entered the hot TOP10 for the first time.
In terms of accessories, Nicola Glass's bag continued Kate Spade's retro design style in the 90s. Glass said that after careful consideration, he decided to return to the true spirit of Kate Spade, and this time began the brand retrospective and experimental journey.
Handbag accessories have always been the cash flow of Kate Spade, accounting for 50% of the total business. However, at New York Fashion Week, creative director Nicola Glass has targeted the ready-to-wear to break through the existing dilemma, enriching the product line and gaining more of the existing user base.
Highlights of this season's Nicola Glass collection are 70's twill and corduroy trousers, narrow jackets and high-rise flared pants. Previously, fashion analysts analyzed that although backed by the "new owner" Coach parent company, Kate Spade urgently needs to diversify and broaden the brand matrix. From the current brand dynamics, ready-to-wear is undoubtedly its next force.
However, success or failure in Kate Spade itself is still behind the consortium support, the future is not certain.
Tory Burch's steady line
Tory Burch, who has a great demeanor, shows stability and calmness.
The 2019 autumn and winter collections continue the American style. Featuring floral dresses, it features a streamlined double-breasted wool coat with tan leather piping and buttons, matching gold-tone heels and stitching leather knee boots. Tory Burch said in an interview: "It is the idea of â€‹â€‹modern art to bring pure creativity and art together, and Tory Burch has always practiced it."
DVF party alternative fashion show
Diane Von Furstenberg CEO Sandra Campos and the designer participated in the DVF party, a private showcase of the brand's fall collection, featuring the latest DVF collection. However, Vogue Runway has only 4 lookups.
When talking about DVF, Von Furstenberg, who was over 70 years old, said that the brand has gone astray. First of all, DVF has become too large and avant-garde, which has confused the original customer base. In this series of designs, the brand will return to the needs of women and aims to make design a friend of women.
WWD commented: DVF series is designed to simplify, in order to simplify women's confusion and entanglement in clothing matching.
Looking at the above-mentioned "light luxury army" in the United States, we can see that the 2019 New York Fashion Week conveyed the signal of the transformation of the head luxury brands.
Under the ebb tide crisis, where do you go?
At a time when consumer memory is becoming weaker, luxury consumers are not willing to give up their original brand image and characteristics. Instead, they must adopt a steady and changeable approach and carefully test new areas of water. In addition, the development of social media is a major weapon for the transformation of luxury, and hopes to quickly seize the young market with the powerful influence of star KOL and social media.
However, with the help of social media, broadening the brand matrix has become the rule of the fashion industry for many years. The path of luxury transformation can really be smooth sailing. The doorway has been analyzed before, and the luxury and low tide are more like the inevitable outcome of consumption upgrading. There are three reasons for this:
First, changes in the global economic situation
The luxury market is closely related to the global economic situation. The economic crisis and geopolitical instability will produce a butterfly effect that will radiate the entire fashion industry. Analysts analyzed that the fashion industry may have downside risks, and McKinsey's data directly pointed out that the growth rate of the global luxury goods industry in 2019 will slow down to 3.5%.
In addition to the overall industry downturn, local political turmoil continues to threaten the fashion industry. For example, the "Yellow Vest" protests in Paris, the fashion capital, led to more than 30 luxury brands including Chanel and Dior being beaten and robbed, and only one of Dior's stores lost more than 1 million euros.
The data shows that the social crisis and industry crisis overlap, the main luxury goods group such as LVMH once fell. The stronger the consortium behind the brand, the more capital endorsements it has, and its ability to cope with risks and uncertainties will be stronger.
At present, the dilemma of the light luxury group is precisely that the product line is cumbersome but not competitive enough. The brand matrix is â€‹â€‹not extended enough, and the funds in the market operation are rampant. It has 145 million market value of LVMH, 65 billion euros of market value of Kaiyun Group, and luxury. The market value of the "LVMH" Coach in the world has only exceeded the $10 billion mark in recent years. The giants are still in the midst of a downturn in the industry, and it is even more unexpected for the light luxury group to resist the harsh winter.
Second, the polarization of the fashion industry is becoming more serious.
In addition to external turmoil, the fashion industry is facing a deeper internal structural change.
Today's fashion industry has a lot of luxury brands and street fashion cards. High-end luxury brands and street fashion brands can harvest more stable consumer groups because of their distinctive positioning. Wall Street Journal Analysis: The future fashion market will be more polarized.
The data reflects the trend. Although McKinsey's data predicts that the growth rate of the global luxury industry will slow down to 3.5%, the head brand is still fierce: LVMH 2018 sales in the first half of the fiscal year increased by 10%, Kaiyun Group is a strong momentum, growth rate 26.8%. Hermes Group also recorded double-digit growth.
Look at the street fashion camp: Off-white's Italian company New Guards Group Holding SpA 2018 sales exceeded 300 million euros, of which Off-White is the number one contributor, the trend forecast company Trendalytics released a report that shows: value 3090 The influence of the billion-dollar streetwear industry in the global fashion luxury market will continue to increase.
In contrast, light luxury brands lack brand uniqueness and clear market positioning, and the living space is constantly squeezed. Some professionals say that luxury is a false proposition, clever use of lower prices, seeking the conflict between the inherent attributes of luxury goods and the market. But this "opportunistic" behavior is difficult to make the brand gain a lot of vitality.
On the other hand, the squeeze of luxury brands on the luxury market is gradually increasing. At present, many high-end luxury brands have launched relatively cheaper secondary products to expand the potential consumer groups. Prada's MiuMiu and Chloe's vice line see by chloe have received good results in the market. The Wall Street Journal pointed out that in the future, more and more high-end brands will fully occupy the light luxury market by slightly lowering their prices.
Third, the loss of the original young audience
Whether the brand can effectively connect consumers is the key to success. Living in the Internet is very popular. The young people in the information explosion era are called the lost generation. Breaking the traditional rules and turning their attention to themselves is their urgent desire.
In other words, whether it's following a trend culture or buying expensive luxury goods, what young people need is to differentiate themselves by brand. However, Sanford C. Bernstein's senior luxury analysts believe that the fatal weakness of luxury brands is the lack of personalization and quality. In other words, its emotional resonance with young consumers is limited.
Coach and Michael Kors have traditionally been favored by the 25-34-year-old rich but purchasing power consumer group. In the United States, for example, the consumer group accounts for about 18% of the total US population. Now, this group is becoming more and more cautious about the purchase of non-essential items due to the slowdown in income growth and the increasing consumption.
In China, the important camp of light luxury brands, consumers' burnout is equally obvious. The US news site "Skift" reported that Chinese consumers account for one-third of global luxury consumer spending, and that they are younger and richer than ever before.
The Reuters report also pointed out that they are less sensitive to price and are more willing to pay for luxury goods. This also means that despite the economic downturn, the consumption concept of young people is becoming more and more high-quality. It can be judged that the consumer groups that light luxury brands use the price advantage have gradually lost.
In the pyramid of the future fashion industry, whether the light luxury tide can usher in a new spring depends on how the light luxury people adapt and use the new "tidal wind direction" in the time coordinates.
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